Highly recommend the switch!! Pop means a strong spring and reduced damping and maybe a nonlinear ramping of the suspension. It is not a feature but a willful decision to make a bike go "pop".
Spectacular and fun and foresaking control. ReformedRoadie Feb 13, at Have you considered adding a volume spacer to your RP23? Seems like a cheap and simple fix. Good call, reformedRoadie.. For those having bottom-out issues with an air shock, and internal spacer will make it more progressive towards the end of stroke. SoCalMX Feb 13, at I really want to try the Fox CTD on it!
It was amazing on my Remedy! Fox CTD is sick! The lock out works very well, the trail setting is perfect for flowy trails or jump trails and then switch it to the defend setting and it eats up rocks and roots! I can't wait to try the CCDB on my new bike. They are coming on the S-Works enduro I'm curious on how it will perform on that bike.
It also comes with a quick adjustment lever to make it a little stiffer for the climbs. The RP23 works well but it depends on the rider weight and riding style and the bike. Changing the air volume doesn't change the dampening of the shock.
I had the HV section of the air can of my RP23 filled in with a custom plastic sleeve I made plus the largest Fox volume reducer in too.
It was awful and ruined riding experience for me on that bike. I also had mine Push tuned and they still couldn't get enough dampening out of it.
Side cut diagrams and models are pure bike tech porn. I love them! Helps to understand everything way easier! Killer article Levy! GuitarKid Feb 13, at I love it. Well said! One of my favorite parts of interbike, was the outside of the Fox booth.. It was lined with cut-away views of all their forks and shocks..
Those engineers earn their money.. Those things are complicated.. Bikelover Feb 13, at I'm sad I have only one prop to give. I love the way it looks, it's not sexy by any stretch of the imagination. N3Rd5 Feb 13, at You sir are crazy! I think its probably the best looking shock on the market, and the engineering is spectacular! Doesn't really bother me without it though. I am looking into the new one that their working on for later set up as long as it is light.
I think they should put something like "kashima coat" on it like fox to make it incredibly SEXY!!!! Thats one of my favorite parts of fox suspension, other than their amazing performance. Their fork's are incredible and thats all I ride, but a db air wouldnt be a bad improvement I just think that its heavier than the rp Especially the model which is pretty sweet!
Anyone old and nerdy enough to remember if the Romic Twin Tube shocks worked on a similar principle? I'm sure I'm looking back with rose tinted specs but my old Twin Tube was awesome better than the DHX5 that I replaced it with when it blew up Ploutre Feb 13, at Specialized has some sort of "lever" that clips onto the LSC bit, and allows you to have a sort of propedal adds a few clicks of LSC, for pedally sections Other than that, great shock And I trully hope that people will finally learn that LSC is NOT when you're going slow on the trails, or the first half of the bike travel This shock seems great but I think guys n girls will have trouble setting it up if you are a novice.
Sweatypants Feb 13, at Double Barrel Air is a mint shock, without doubt. Double Barrel. Not theoretical or laboratory tests, but analysis of data from sensors mounted on a bike, from riding on the diversified mountain track.
DB air wins hands down for me, got it fitted to a patriot and its just immense. And the biggest point here we're talk direct comparison between 2 stock shocks not an off the shelf versus something thats had to be tinkered with to do what its supposed to. Secondly i think where CC and DVO are getting things right here is allowing the end user to make mods, how many years has it taken for fox to put our the spacers for the 23?
CC provide can spacers straight off the bat. Push tuning is great but why the hell can the end user not just purchase the parts? All i can say is i hope more CC and DVO companies turn up and keep rolling out kit that works out of the box with just a change of settings. Good work boys and gals keep it coming. After riding many dampers, including the rp23, dhx coil, dhx air, rc4, db coil and vivid coil I concur with Levy's review.
The db air is a welcome upgrade on my Nomad C. You using the regular can or XV? Bigger than the low volume but not the XV, there are 3 different cans for the db air I think? Mine is the standard can I believe. Suspension Werx set it up. I just go with James's recommendations. I'm sure that Push link is a very good upgrade as well.
Yeah, so you're using the standard can my bad on calling it regular. With the release of the new XV can I'm contemplating trying it with the stock link. If it gives the same performance and saves weight, that would be sweet. Do you know if James used CCs base settings for the Mad or came up with his own? Small bump good? I have changed the settings quite a bit from stock.
I lowered the psi until I got the proper sag and played with the adjustments until I was happy with it. Small bump is excellent. For me a lock out, or "propedal" is missing, when I think about allmountain, I go uphill for an hour or two at least, otherwise it's freeride, dowhnill. But its not really needed tbh. Just turn it 2 or 3 clicks and you'd have a really stable platform.
This is on a 35lb bike that sometimes sees ft of climbing in a single ride. I can't say I've ever thought of blaming my shock when I can't clear a feature or when my legs cramp up because I thought it would be a good idea to bring a 35lb bike. Axxe Feb 14, at I ride my Nicolai uphill, and with proper LSC adjustment and good suspension there is absolutely no need for a lockout.
You're maybe right, however I won't buy one unless trying, I know that with a RP2 I can't make a descent uphill without propedal, I m also quiet heavy which doesnt help exrcyst You're a machine, ft on a 35lb bike is very respectable. You pay your money and you make your choice. A tuned shock is always going to be better than standard in my opinion if you tune it for your weight, style of riding and frame.
The guys at TF Tuned also retune if its slightly off for free. Can't say i've been happier. One of the best mods I had done was the bottom out mod. An extra tenner stops that harsh bottom out I get the feeling its not going to be that much of a leap in performance.
Performance-wise, they're really close, but on a different level The Void is definitely a DH Race shock that keeps the wheel glued to the ground with immense grip and control, whereas the CCDBA has more versatility does that word even exist?
GetInGearBicycles Feb 13, at Demo bike or not.. The folks at Cane Creek are great to work with. The first setting to adjust is the low-speed rebound. Wind the dial all the way to maximum. This will undoubtedly be too much, but if you then conduct a kerb test, by riding off one, it allows you to feel how the suspension performs when set up poorly. Chances are, the wheel will just drop off the kerb and stop dead.
Reduce the low-speed rebound until the suspension cycles only a couple of times, and then settles, when you ride off the kerb. Make a note of how many clicks you dialled out. Next, adjust the low-speed compression. This controls rider input, like weight shifts, and braking stability.
Dave recommends a maximum of around five clicks of LSC. Again, make a note of how many clicks you added. High-speed compression deals with impacts that generate higher shaft speeds, such as sudden jolts from roots and rocks. Make these sag adjustments in your riding kit, including a pack if you use one. Use the online spring calculator at tftuned. The first setting to adjust is the low-speed rebound. Wind the dial all the way to maximum. This will undoubtedly be too much, but if you then conduct a kerb test, by riding off one, it allows you to feel how the suspension performs when set up poorly.
Chances are, the wheel will just drop off the kerb and stop dead. Reduce the low-speed rebound until the suspension cycles only a couple of times, and then settles, when you ride off the kerb. Make a note of how many clicks you dialled out. Next, adjust the low-speed compression. This controls rider input, like weight shifts, and braking stability. Dave recommends a maximum of around five clicks of LSC. Again, make a note of how many clicks you added. High-speed compression deals with impacts that generate higher shaft speeds, such as sudden jolts from roots and rocks.
Dave generally recommends starting with only clicks of HSC. The suspension needs to absorb the square-edged impacts, but still remain lively and extend fully, ready to absorb repeated hits. It also creates a sort of pogo effect — it feels like the bike is constantly unsettled. If your Cane Creek shock has the new Climb Switch, then it makes sense to set your bike up for descending, which might mean a little bit more sag and a softer feel less LSC , and then use the lever exclusively for the climbs.
The key tool, however, is an accurate shock pump preferably digital , so you can make repeatable changes to the air pressure. Check your tyre pressures no really Before you even bother adjusting anything, check your tyre pressures.
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