Kudos to them on two accounts: 1 a free loaner, and 2 a report on the process for the next time this happens. If I lose another glow plug in the future, I won't be intimidated to buy the tool and try it myself. MarkinOly said:. Daytona Mercedes dealership. My Sprinter, 32k miles. Then the dreaded phone call: broke one glowplug. Is that a legit charge for removing a busted glowplug? Do the Benz assembly boys not annoint critical parts with anti-seize, etc, etc?? This whole business of the egr and the dpf and the glowplugs used as afterburners, has me cherishing my T1N.
There is no hard and fast rule on these I am afraid, much like the 5 banger they replaced only thinner and longershe said! Every so often though you will get one specimen, and I have one at the moment having failed its E test on glows and Nox sensors.
I knew I was in for a hard time when I pulled two out with yes Made in China on them! Two were a real chore to come out having swollen in the shank and the "ballooning" made them hard to even turn. In the end dangerous as it was, I simply ran the engine hot turning the plug until it almost blew them out.
This took the thread with it but a nutsert will fix that! The last two, one by the turbo actuator, and the other in the middle of the right head had been crossed in there and then swollen up like the rest.
Off they broke like carrots! Now I have extraction tools which rely on a 5x 0. Leaving the stock extraction tools aside I have 6" long aircraft taps and drills from my apprentice days to go deep into the body but you can only go so far since you will break into the inert power sac where the heat transference takes place from element to tip protruding into the cylinder. Now again with after market glows the tips and the the fusion of tip to body is marginal, not like a Beru which is substantially fixed to the body shank.
This is important when trying to extract! Now as with the 5 banger engine, I could take the whole shank out with an aircraft style drill bit, and with back pressure through a dummy injector reverse blow out what's left with shop air! Now I am faced with this again with two glows and as a result, I am using these vintage aircraft drills from the 's to try and remove the whole bloody Kahuna without dropping the tip into the cylinder.
Who says this stuff is easy! Wish me luck as I search for an answer on this 'un without taking the head off!
Dennis ps Digging through my leather bound brass buggery box I am reminded of days gone long past when stuff made in the UK and USA where commonplace. I still have new aircraft drills in packets with Chicago Latrobe and old style 'merican graphics on them plus 50 year old micrometers etc with Starret Jedburg Scotland proudly presented when you open the wooden carry box.
Won't see that from China just a bloody bubble pack which you use once and bung in the scrap. I know this is just a guess Dennis but what is the service life of the glow plugs? I know there are several variables involved but at how many miles should we be keeping a set handy? Woe What did they do take the heads off? Dennis Mechanic. Here we went around the Mulberry Bush!
The remains of the glow plug body can now be removed. Screw in the force screw 4 to the puller adapter mandrel. Place the puller outer housing 3 over the force screw. Screw on the force nut 5 with raised collar facing inwards. Holding the force screw with a 12mm wrench or socket, run the force nut down with a 30mm wrench. This action will pull out the remaining part of the glow plug body from the cylinder head.
Before installing the new glow plug, thoroughly clean inside the port with a brush. Ensure that all metal shavings, dirt and debris are removed from the port, glow plug threads and combustion chamber before installing a new glow plug. Replacement step drill bits are available. Please wait For discounts sign up below.
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